This is a review of the AMT 1970 Oldsmobile 442 Hardtop Kit#C5070
I have liked this car as well as the ’69 for most of my life. I know Olds cars get the short end of the stick when it comes to muscle cars, but these cars are fantastic. This model, unfortunately, is a terrible piece of work. The greatness of the car DOES win out… but barely. Usually I have a paragraph for other options with this car. There are NONE. This is the only ’70 model kit there is ANYWHERE.
Jo-han, Jo-han, Jo-han. I bark all the time at how shitty these kits typically are, and from the experience of working with almost a dozen kits recently, I can say they ARE inaccurate, overpriced, GARBAGE. This is a 1970 Olds Hardtop (442) kit. So…, tell me why.. there is a picture of a *1969* Olds on the side of the BOX?!? They mass produced a box with the wrong fricken car pictured on the side!! This isn’t a “feature” as they tout, it is a chuckleheaded ERROR. It does at least help me look in the mirror when I realize I made a stupid grammatical mistake in my writings, but this still makes for horrifyingly BAD confidence in the remainder of the kit when the box doesn’t even show the right damn car!!! Shame Jo-han.
CAR BACKGROUND :: So, like the ’69 442, the ’70 sported some potent engines while giving one of the better rides out there. The 400, however, was dropped and the 350 wasn’t as strong of a secondary engine. The 455ci still had the ominous 500lb-ft of torque – the highest in the industry – and would burn any set of tires to the ground with a simple toe-tap. The 442 name would then go steadily downhill til the end – with a wheezing, striped Cutlass in the 80s. This is definitely a car that should have had a reissue when you consider how many times a useless Gremlin has been!
Like EVERY SINGLE JO-HAN KIT I’VE BUILT, this Olds is full of problems and issues. I painted it Tamiya Chrome Yellow and added a LOT to make it work. First, the rims are from a ’69 as the ones included are lousy. The tires were also replaced. The stripes didn’t come with this kit and were used from a Revell ’72 Cutlass kit and they are on a hood with no ram air system. There is more… a bunch more.
Underneath, the car is 100% garbage. The detail is small; there are almost no parts to put together; the holes for the axles were off; the exhaust is molded and doesn’t line up with the engine (AT ALL) or the tips on the bumpers; and like I said earlier, the wheels and tires are trash. The only up-side is that the fit to the body is reasonable – though it does still float under the body.
Unlike the ’69 455, the ’70 is rather un-amazing looking. The blue is plain Jane, and there isn’t a whole lot of other decor to spruce it up. There are no decals; the brake boost is small; the wheel wells leave too big an opening between the bay and body; and there are NO speed options with this kit. Looking at this compared with the ’69 442’s 455 is like night and day. There is also no W-30 option or ram-air option either. In fact, this car plays out more like a Cutlass in multiple areas than that of a 442. Note** – the red wheel wells were a ’70 442 commonplace. Looks weird – especially with the yellow, but is a stock feature.
The inside of this car is a mash-up of good and bad as well. The shifter is unique as it goes up through the bottom of the interior tub – for a very snug fit. The dash also has reasonable detail and the steering wheel does too. Then you look further around and see the doors are VERY bare of detail, the seats don’t have a good gluing base, and the interior floats badly inside the body of the car. At least there are all the parts necessary to make the interior correctly, but it is a small consolation.
The biggest problem with this kit is that is is missing quite a few “442” parts. There’s no hood scoop for the hood (where this would also be a W-30), there are no decals for the engine and body of the car, and the engine bay has no hoses for the ram air system. This could be a ’70 Cutlass 350 easier than a 442. Beyond that, the kit still has shortcomings: the ’69 kits are better, and better equipped; and these kits are VERY pricey ($60+) since they are rare. They are a fantastic investment as this is an awesome car and not expected to be a reissue, but as a builder… you should potentially look elsewhere.
6.75 – Mediocre
This X-Ray is for a newer released kit of Dominic’s GTX from the Fast and the Furious by AMT. This kit includes:
2 sets of tires and rims (incl stock); 440 magnum engine (no option); full decal sheet with hood side stripes; GTX non-air-grabber hood; Good: VERY cool to be able to build a ’71 GTX without the air-grabber hood; quality AMT kit; still reasonably priced. Bad: 96% AMT’s GTX kit that has been around for decades; least impressive outward look of Fast & Furious cars.
This is a review of the 1965 Dodge Coronet Snap-it by AMT – Kit #1176
This is a car that I’ve always wanted to build because of all the drag racing pictures i’ve seen over the years in my books. Like the 330, Polara, and Savoy, the early Coronet was a heck of a drag car and there were enough time strips to back it up in spades. That said, I liked the actual car’s look and wished they made a model to build. Enter the newly reissued Coronet 500 Snap-it…. Snap???
This is the ONLY other ’65 model car I’ve seen – besides metal, pre-painted versions… and it’s over $200. Looks like it can be built stock, but after building this new kit… I can say that it isn’t worth it by a LONG shot unless you want it for an investment.
CAR BACKGROUND :: The 1965 Coronet was a altogether new model that happened to retain a good bit of the 330’s look. Sporting a new grille and a decorative off-trunk rear light set-up, the car had a further distinctive look. It happened to carry the same engine devilry that the 330 did and the car performed at the drag like few others could. On the street, the Coronet sported the 426 street wedge and some 365hp. This was NOT your grandma’s grocery cart… not by a long shot. Mid-15s in the quarter were easy enough on garbage tires from the dealer, but more so, the torque would snap your neck in half when you got on the throttle. Not quite like the 500hp, 10second cars of the strip. but then again, they weren’t going to get a loaf of bread either!
YES… I said SNAP kit. No, I haven’t lost my good senses. This is NOT a normal, ho-hum snap-together kit. Yeah, you won’t have to use much glue (I did out of habit and need, but I think you could get away without ANY), but that isn’t the only point to a snap-kit. This snap kit has an opening hood. It has an engine.. a really nice 426 Wedge to be precise. It has a full interior, a dozen-piece chassis, a reasonable set of rims, AND a large decal sheet. This is 99% a regular kit and will look like one on ANY shelf – no shit. I did this car in Tamiya Pearl Green – not quite a ’65 color – but was one I thought would look the part of a 60’s Dodge. Also stunning for a snap kit – I had to add almost NOTHING.
Yup.. a 426 wedge. Complete with all the fixin’s, this engine bay has just about everything you could need – save a well appointed firewall. Most Revell Mopar kits are weak in the firewall detail and this AMT is no different. Wiper motor, a set of wires.. anything would help. The remainder is just modeling goodness. Big battery; well-defined radiator; and a radiator hose. Fantastic… and not very snap-together-y.
The interior looks like a regular kit as well. There is good ridge detail, lots of items to add chrome and color, and has a rear view mirror included. The stuff that isn’t included, and should be there, are the roll-bars and the like if you wanted to make a drag-ster out of this kit. In fact, besides the cross-ram intake and scoop, there is almost nothing “speed” about this kit. Sorry rev-heads, if ya want a 10 second car, you’ll need to use your parts bin.
The underside of this car is also perfectly non-snap. There is a full exhaust; front and rear suspensions to assemble; excellent wheels/tires; and really good fit and finish. About the only downside about this goodness is the fit to the body of the car. I could not figure out why there was such a gap between the lower body and the chassis. I looked everywhere and couldn’t figure it out. Just sitting, you’d never notice, but it is either a mold flaw or I missed something (wouldn’t be the first time for me, but the snap-kit gremlins may be responsible too).
The kit is molded in a horrible blue color (not worth clear coating), still could use a few more pieces, and has too few speed parts for one of the best drag cars of the 60’s, but it is STILL one of the better kits to build that you will find. There is almost NO flash; the pieces fit EASILY since it IS still a snap kit; there is very little glass to install and potentially ruin; AND since it is a newer issue, has little chance of having glass problems, decal issues, and chrome deterioration. It has very little investment potential right now, but it is also reasonably priced and a FUN build. Go buy this SNAP kit!… UGH.
This is a review of the ’70 Super Bee Pro Street by AMT – Kit #6140
I have only built this one twice (the first time was the stock model) and I can say without too much pause, that I will most likely never build it again. The kit, overall, is one of the worst I’ve ever had to work with. There is a lot of flash; the hood fits as poorly as any kit EVER; the overall fit/finish is 5th rate; and it has gotten so pricey, that only a Coronet owner would need to fool with it. My original thought for this build was to do a tribute to David Freiburger’s ’70 Super Bee (from the famous series Roadkill, on Motor Trend TV), but I just couldn’t get all the correct parts for the build, so this became a one-of-a-kind build – in MY image.
There are a few other versions of this pro street Coronet and they all rank about the same in modeling goodness. I don’t have any idea what type of decals the “Dirty Donny’s” version has, but I assume the rest of the car is the same (message if you’d like to fill me in otherwise!). Revell doesn’t make a ’70 Coronet and I don’t know of any others kits besides AMT’s stock kit… which has multiple iterations.
CAR BACKGROUND :: Here it is folks. THE ugliest Mopar muscle car EVER MADE. The jowls on this car are hideous; it’s too long; doesn’t have interesting lines; and has a bland rear fascia. Sorry Dave.
It IS one of the most interesting looking Mopars of the era and is one, with the right engine choices, that could walk away from even the most violent beasts on the road. Problem with the last statement is that only THIRTEEN of these opted for the Hemi (making them astronomically priced now), and only some 200+ got the 440 six-pack. Now, the plain Jane 440 was STILL a great motor, but there was no beating the other two for bragging rights! Now me, like Mr Freiburger, think this car does make a pretty sweet drag/street car. In his show, he takes his reasonably good Super Bee and makes it a violent piece of machinery. With quarter times in the 11s, his 3800+lb orange moves like nobody’s business and, because it IS so fast, doesn’t need to look like a Challenger doing so.
Don’t ask why, but I am a true fan of hot pink colors for hopped up muscle. To me it screams as loud as the car should. This one is painted Electric Pink and I think it definitely looks the part. I added a gnarly hood scoop from a Chevelle and chrome exhaust, but this was only the start of the mods.
So here is the meat of this bad-boy. A big, evil, hemi. A 484ci hemi to be precise. I used the size from Dave’s Coronet as it is a REAL engine and as good a number as any. The bay is very good for an AMT and the engine fits snugly under the massive scoop. The original kit has the high rise intake sitting outside the hood, but I like the giant scoop on the car much better.
The next thing I wanted to do was add some writing to the story. I added custom “484 HEMI” and “Killer Bee” decals to the front and rear. I know the killer bee thing has been done, but it works for an unholy drag car IMHO and it looks the part too.
As you can see, the home-made license plate finishes off the craziness and I think, IRL, it all makes the car look like something I definitely wouldn’t mess with! I mentioned fit and finish as a complaint, and you can see that while the bumper fits neatly in the pre-made holes in the body, it still is molded to be crooked!
The underside of this car is ALL speed. The mufflers are stock to the kit and I fashioned some chrome exit pipes to go out the sides. I get that drag-ers don’t care much about exhaust getting in the car, and they sure didn’t give much care back when, but I wanted the exhaust to exit out the sides. The pro stock chassis works well and fits seemingly better than the stock AMT Coronet’s chassis did. The wheels are just the cherry on the look and I wish I had more cars this way… it is just bad-a$$.
I know the car looks like there would be nothing wrong with putting this together, but it really is a problem child with getting everything right. It isn’t a floater or missing a bunch of pieces, but it just exudes cheap and annoying. The hood is NEVER quite right (the stock fitting, not the scoop), you’ve seen the rear bumper fail, and the front grill/valance fit is loose and irritating. That said, this is a GREAT kit for making something grumpy and fast looking! It IS a good investment as these are getting SUPER rare and can cost upward of $40. I cannot say it is worth the price to build as there are far cheaper and far more attractive muscle cars… but, I built it… so…
This X-Ray is for a ’69 Firebird Trans Am by AMT. This kit includes:
1 set of tires and 2 sets of rims; 400ci, V8 (6cyl opt); hoods for the Firebird 400 AND Trans Am; smaller decal sheet w/ T/A stripes. Good: One of the few model kits with a 6-cyl engine and single exhaust included. Bad: Engine is small for bay; hood fit is lousy; terrible overall quality; getting expensive; who wants a 6-cyl & single exhaust in a Firebird!?!?.
So, I have a problem here and I’m issuing a reward for finding a un-used AMT 1968 Galaxie by AMT. I am not interested in any other scale besides 1/24 or 1/25 and I do not want anything besides the AMT version. I am willing to pay either a $15 finder’s fee OR pay handsomely for the model car if you have one Contact me with any info please. You have one to sell… here’s the chance! –Kev
This X-Ray is for a Monogram ’70 Boss 302. Kit includes :
1 set of tires and rims; 302ci V8; excellent interior; decal sheet – just stripes for “Boss 302”. Good: One of Revell’s better builds; low flash; good instructions. Bad: NOT the 429; decal sheet is small; rear view mirror glues to front glass; has blown hood scoop, but little else for speed parts; pricey.
This X-Ray is for a Ferrari Enzo by Revell. This kit includes:
1 set of tires and rims; 650hp V-12; large decal sheet; mesh sheet. Good: Fantastic reproduction of the Enzo; Lots of parts; awesome engine detail; one of the cheapest Ferrari kits out there. Bad: Body and rear hatch are 50/50 to match up; lots of black trim.
EXTRA:: I will eventually be doing a review of this kit, but I HAD to mention the pricing of this kit. The Ferrari Enzo IS one of the coolest, fastest Ferraris ever produced, and, for some reason, is one of the cheapest kits out there. If you need a “starter” kit, this is the one – as pricing for these is at an all-time low. NINE BUCKS is a typical price. Nine dollars for a half-million dollar, 217mph, performance icon.
This X-Ray is for an AMT ’71 Charger R/T. This kit includes:
1 set of tires and rims; 440 magnum engine (no option); full stock decal sheet. Good: One of the better detailed AMT kits; LOADS of parts; Bad: No speed parts; no Super Bee option; one of the worst fitting hoods in model-dom.
This is a review of the AMT ’67 Chevelle Revell Kit#4285
Back when I was around 13, I made this car for the first time. It was dark blue and came out superbly… for an early attempt. It was the dark blue AMT below and it is a favorite of mine to this day. Wished I had a pic of it, but – oh well. I had to do this car, but instead of a homage, I wanted something like night and day. This build is also a combo of this kit and I believe the #2 kit below. That kit was horribly molded in blue and the turquoise didn’t come out good enough for me. I kept the engine and chassis and took a new body from the Streetburner kit.
Yup, THAT many… and I’m not even sure these are all of em. I cannot understand – for the life of me – WHY this particular Chevelle was made into over SEVEN pro street editions?!? This was a pretty stout performer JUST BY ITSELF, so I am confused on the need. It wasn’t a popular drag car back in the day… wasn’t even THE best body style. I don’t get it. That said, you have a good number to choose from. The top row are the stock versions (though the “Streetburner” ones are usually stock or race) and the others are drag cars with no way of building stock.
BIG note:: the Pro Street bodies are NOT inter-changeable with the stock ones – say if you need a replacement. They do not have the inner fender wells and are slightly different proportions.
CAR BACKGROUND :: As I’ve said before, this isn’t the best Chevelle by any stretch. It is handsome, sleek, and is pretty muscular with the right options, but still probably number three or four in my book. Like I said above, too, this was a heck of a performer in its own right. The 396ci that you could get had a massive 375hp and would get this car movin’ into the 14s through the quarter. I saw a car show vehicle with a non-stock 427ci in it and would wonder what a YENKO of this one would do. Beyond numbers, the car is a solid looker and is demanding stout prices nowadays. CANT argue with Chevy style!
Night and day – I decided against the original dark blue and the turquoise I had done recently (with a fail) and switched to White. This happens to be Wimbledon White, but looks close enough to original for me (see pic right). I stuck with the rallye wheels and I believe I used the actual tires from the kit. This kit included a couple different color pin-stripes, but I went with black. Besides some extra trimming of the hood, this is a solid-build kit.
I didn’t get a good shot of the interior. I think from here on out, I will be photographing any of the cars interiors before completion. I cannot seem to get anything grandiose otherwise. The Revell kits all have decent interiors – whether for drag or stock – and are detailed, and well appointed.
The underside of this kit is excellent. There is a truck-load of detail – with the tank, axle and floorpan and the exhaust looks real-life. I like the AMT version’s side-exit exhaust better, but these still look good and this kit is a good bit better than the AMT. The axles are easy to work with and the exhaust mates well with the engine. Solid “A” here.
One of the best Chevrolet engine bays out there, the 396 really shines up. I think I’d like the wires to be another color and, as this was an early job, would like the wires to be a bit more even/uniform. Really like the bay though. There is a TON to further detail than what I did and it has everything you need. Really, the only complaint is that the engine looks a little small. 396 cubes ain’t enough apparently!
This is truly a good kit. The lines are fantastic; the flash is low; the number of pieces are good; and the fit/finish is REALLY good. The toughest part of the build is the chrome on the rear lights, but I’ve dealt with MUCH worse! The Revell non-pro-stock kits are becoming more and more scarce, so you should get em while they are still cheap. They are also still reasonable in cost, so build while you can as well!