The Model Car Showroom
Reviews, pictures, hints, and links 1/24, 1/25 car kits
Review : 1969 AMC AMX (Pro Street), Testors 1/25
This is a review of the Testors 1969 AMC AMX Pro Street (Testors #7403)
I really like AMC muscle, and I’m kinda bummed about the lack of good car kits out there. This is one of the only AMX/Javelin kits you can buy, and it is not only horrifying, but VERY expensive. WHY. With 4 years and many looks/engines to choose from, this should be on the drawing board for cool-a$$ cars to manufacture. It is a shame ,and annoys me to no end.
The Jo-Han kit to the left is a good choice; however, do NOT think this is a hefty-parted kit OR that it’s as complete as a car-buff would want. Looking below at the X-Ray, there are about 40 pieces and ZERO custom ones. No second set of rims, no slicks, and no “speed” parts of any kind. This will make a good-looking AMX, but don’t expect it to be a 3-weeker to work on… there is just no meat on these bones.
CAR BACKGROUND :: AMC was in its prime this year and offered the AMX, Javelin, Rebel Machine, and the SC Rambler for muscle options. I have reviewed the SC Rambler by Jo-Han, and it is even worse than this kit (by a factor of TEN). All of the cars above had a lot of oomph, but I think the AMX/Javelin models are my favorites. The high-performance versions carried the 390ci V8, which easily made more than 300hp.
They were no match for some of the other muscle in ’69, but still could manage 14-second E.T.s at close to 100mph.
BUILD NOTES : I really dislike this kit from stem to stern. The wheels that come with it are awful, and the special “metal” ones are heavy and look odd next to any other model cars. It comes with an otherworldly hood scoop, and the entire kit typically has a lot of flash to remove. Add to that the need for a dozen pieces from other kits, and you are stuck with an AMC jigsaw puzzle. The “pro stock” setup is rather good if that is your kick, but with so few AMC car kits out there, you should persevere and make it stock.
For paint, I had to steal from the Mopar collection and use Sublime Green. They made Big Bad Blue for model cars, but not green. I sure wasn’t going to buy the real thing either… I spend too much as it is, and I was not buying a $30 spray bomb to do this car. Anyways, the color is very close and looks great on the AMC. I also stole proper magnum wheels from another kit and the tires to match. Besides that, I had to produce a rearview mirror and a side mirror as well.
The 390 that comes with this kit isn’t bad, but it is only set up for “street”. I therefore had to dip… rather dive into the parts bin to help it out. The air cleaner is out of another kit, but I used one of the included carbs. I also had to swipe a stock intake from a Ford kit as I didn’t want the cross-ram one included in the Pro Stock kit.
Because of that, I also had to fashion a radiator hose, since the one included was race-oriented. I decided on a green wire motif this time and had to add a proper brake boost and battery (as the kit didn’t include either). It all turned out ok, but do NOT expect this stock look from Testors. I also made the 390 air cleaner decal to go with it, as there were no decals included with the kit – and frankly, none to buy either.
The interior is lackluster and has very little detail. There is no back seat (which the real thing didn’t have) and no center console either. Rather sparse for a mild muscle car. I used a different shifter and added a stalk to the column, but otherwise the interior was ok.
The chassis is going to give fits more than any other problem with the car. The kit is set up for big headers and deleted exhaust. NOT on my menu. I used most of the exhaust off of a 67 Charger, including the straight “ends” with nice tips. There isn’t much else to fiddle with, as both axles are molded and devoid of add-ons. No shocks, springs, joints, etc. It came out ok, but it is not the selling point of this kit.
If anyone knows of good AMC kits, I would be VERY thankful. I have no need for Gremlins, Matadors (why the he## did someone think a Matador was needed?!), or Pacers, so anything with a big V8 AND looks will work for me. This one is NOT for the faint of heart and requires a lot of skill to make stock. It is also missing so much that unless you are a veteran builder with a substantial parts bin, you’ll be out of luck in every area of the car.
These kits are rare as heck and cost upward of $80 when you find em. It’s a necessity if you want an AMX… albeit an expensive one. Any of the kits I listed above would be excellent for a collector as well, since there hasn’t been a reissue and there have been almost ZERO AMC muscle cars reissued in the past 20 years. Expect them to keep rising in value from here.
I needed one… so I am poor LOL.
4.5 – Bad
’69 Ford Mustang Boss 302
This is a review of the Revell 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 302 – ala John Wick
So, I’m going to do this review a tad bit different. I want to quickly explain the car before explaining the model. I have wanted to build this type of Mustang for a while, but ended up with problems along the way. Then… John Wick arrived on the scene. His whole life wrapped partially around a 1969 Mustang Boss 429. Well… that’s all well and good, but the car was not a 429… or a Boss for that matter. The car was a ’69 Mustang Mach 1 – with something under the hood that was NOT a 429. Granted – it is much more impressive mentioning a $120,000 car vs. a $50k car, but it was a bit too obvious. There is also a real good reason why I chose the 302 kit instead of a Mach 1 – more later.
On to the Boss. I really like this kit. There are a few things to watch for, but all-in-all, it is great. There is a bit of flash to have to trim. The back panel is tricky to place too. Make sure to hold the bumper up to make sure it is in the right spot. Besides the fixes to make this Wick’s beauty, there is little reason for the parts bin. Worst bit: the rear view mirror goes in the middle of the windshield. There is a peg where the mirror rests. Problem lies with any error resulting in glue problems. Solution – use a dab of Super Glue GEL (or generic). It doesn’t run at all and holds just as solid. Much less chance of a big glass fiasco.
The big problem with 1969 Mach 1 kits is that – except #3 (which is rare and expensive) – they all are TERRIBLE kits. They fit poorly, have small, shriveled engines, poor chrome, and missing pieces everywhere. I don’t believe they have the ram air scoop that is needed either.
Revell does make a ’69 Mach 1 (above), but it is also rare and expensive. The other Boss/Mach cars from Revell are ’70s models and are VERY different – as you can see.
CAR BACKGROUND :: The Mustang was in full stride by the time it hit 1969. There was no shortages of trims, colors, engines, and excitement. The Boss 302 was a handling marvel and sported an underrated 290hp, V8. It wasn’t the fastest in the stable, but round a track, it was the prime horse to ride. It was not slow, however, as the ¼mile was gone in under 15 seconds with the speedo pointing at almost 95 mph. Minus the cool Boss decals and the regular black-stripped hood, this is a Boss 302 from front to back.
BUILD NOTES : This IS a really good kit, nonetheless, and you won’t have to do too much soul searching to get it movie ready. If you desire a true Boss 302, you really only need to watch placing the decals. There are over a half dozen to get right and one screw-up will ruin the whole shebang.
The 302 has always been a fun engine to work with and this one is no different. The only thing I’ve had to add here is a Shelby air cleaner for a nice look. These were prevalent – even for non-Shelby cars. This one looks like it has two screws – like for a dual-carb. They actually made these for one carb with a single nut between the two. I decided not to hole the really good air cleaner, so it is missing the middle nut. Aside from that, the engine bay is as bad-ass as the man himself. It has a good size battery; a large brake boost; a hearty radiator group, and engine braces. I am going to add a “caution fan”, but am otherwise happy with this one. I didn’t even bother to “wire” it. Now.. why not throw in a Boss 429?? Well, two reasons. The first is that the car from the movie did NOT have one, so I didn’t see the need to use it. The second is that, even though I have one, I really didn’t want to shoe-horn it into this car just for the sake of mention.
I had to look for a while to find a color that worked well with his car. The Testors Graphite Dust was just perfect. And, thanks to the all-in-one, it needs no primer/gloss/etc. I did have to make some changes, however. First and foremost, the hood scoop is from a 69 Torino Cobra. Not that there isn’t another kit with one, but the size of this one is spot-on. I also had to make the ghost stripes. Mine are a shade too dark, but still came out well. I didn’t see any reason to use the side stripes either. Usually it is one or another, not both. There is another funny delete from the Wick Mustang. The rear valance of these Mach 1/ Boss cars had MUSTANG emblems across the back – above the lights. His were deleted and the stripes were finished on the back valance. I didn’t use the striped there as the decals would not have sat over the lettering very well. Any way you slice it, it looks pretty slick. Oh, and I also fashioned his license plate to finish the look (though I didn’t put one in the front).
The interior is very nice in this car. It is very close to the 69 GT500 that Revell makes and is one of the better ones you’ll build. There is a lot of detail in the dash and the doors/seats don’t suffer either.
There’s not a lot of hatred for the underside as well. The exhaust is OK, but fits good and has decent tips. The shocks are separate, but I just left them black. Wheels are the standard Magnum with Good Year white letter tires (which thankfully came with the car).
Beyond anyone’s need for John Wick’s Mustang, this Boss 302 is a hell of a kit. It is a rather easy build and only has a few flaws. I did say there was a reason for the Boss over the Mach 1. Quite simply… MUCH cheaper. This Boss 302 can be purchased at Hobby Lobby for about $18 (using their 40% off coupon). The only Mach 1 I’d buy typically sells for more than $35.
As far as a John Wick clone? It’s definitely worth a gold coin!
9.0 – Excellent
Review : 1969 Ford Torino Cobra, AMT 1/25
This is a review of the AMT 1969 Ford Torino Cobra – KIT #38415
I don’t think I will be any more at odds about a model car than the ’69 Torino. This was one of the first cars I ever built and it is a beautiful looking car IMHO. However, this kit is a bit of Jekyll and Hyde. There is a great bunch of goodness to it, but there is enough “wrong” to both cost you a pretty penny and also make you dip into the parts bin too often.
The above kits are basically the same (I’ve bought all 4 at one time or another). These kits can all have the same issues, and that would include : poor chrome, tire marks on the glass, ugly mold colors, uninteresting tires, and mediocre decals. The model to the right is the newer reissue and it fixes the tires and decal sheet issues, but makes no fixes to the build quality.
Revell makes a nice version of the Torino Talladega, which was built to allow the car entry into racing. The front clip is extended and – to me – ruins the shape of the car. Because of the extension and the model’s 1/24th scale, the Talladega looks like it is 1/20th scale compared to the other models you’ll own. It is BY FAR a better kit (and in most cases cheaper), but I don’t like the finished product, and it certainly doesn’t look as sharp as the regular Torino.
CAR BACKGROUND :: The Torino was the new Fairlane for 1968 and it was a complete departure from the straight-lined, stacked-lighted, ’67. With a snubbed nose and fastback, the new car was a shadow of its former self. Some believe it is an abomination, but I think it has its own way of being cool. Engine options didn’t suffer either, and this one gets the coveted 428 Cobra Jet. With the 335hp, this upstart would run past almost any ’67 out there – to the tune of 14-flat through the ¼mile. It is a car that I’ve liked for some 25+ years… and probably always will.
BUILD NOTES : So, back to this mish-mash of a kit. The model will most assuredly have flash in a lot of areas – especially around the wheelbase. The hood takes some effort to get seated right, and the hole is not easy to make either. It is a good thing for those who deleted the ram air option, but not for those wanting it.
All of the above kits come with NASCAR options such as light covers, roll bars, exhaust options, dash options, and much more. I really think that this model is not designed well enough for a stock-car motif, but it is all there to make just the same. The biggest issue is the lack of decals for the race option. I think the reissue fixes that, but the others are useless.
Probably the worst place to be in this model is under the bonnet. The 428 looks pretty decent (though a tad small) and, with wires, shines up real nice. Unfortunately, the stock engine bay is among the worst you’ll find. I had to add a master cylinder from another kit; a washer motor from (most likely) a Mopar; had to paint a molded washer reservoir that had no real end to it (it ran the length of the inner fender!); used an air cleaner off another Ford because of not using the Ram Air option; and replaced the ridiculous overflow tank with a regular hose. When all was said and done, the bay looks quite respectable, but NOT because of the kit.
The original color I used 20 years ago was Testors Red Metal Flake, and I painted it with a .35 cent brush! It was nice but had more dark spots than a leopard. Not awful for a 14-year-old, but nonetheless, lousy. This one is done in Testors Citrus Yellow to mimic the Ford Lime Gold of that year. I really like the look, but a red or blue would bring out the chrome better. The blue GT to the right was made by Randy Bodkin and is a wonderfully clean Torino (Check his site in my links!). Aside from all the missing parts in the engine area, the car is also missing a side mirror (I used one from the parts bin), a rear-view mirror (same), and the tires are the floppy, flash-ridden ones from AMT.
The interior, however, is NOT a bad place to be. The four-circled cluster in the dash is handsome, and the automatic shifter is really nice. Door detail is awful, but is overlooked with the rest of the car.
The bottom of this kit is typical AMT garbage. Low detail, poor fitting exhaust, molded shocks and little other detail. It also uses pins and a rod through the axles for movement, so the rear axle is molded as well. This car does come with exhaust tips that are top-5 best in the modeling kingdom.
As I mentioned, this kit is a beauty and a beast, so use caution when buying. Thankfully, the reissue has made this kit very affordable. At one time, this kit could be as high as $50, but now it’s an everyday $25 purchase. With the newer reissue, this kit certainly isn’t becoming a collectible anytime soon, but that makes it a good buy – even if you need more than one to make it perfectly.
7.0 – Mediocre
Review : 1967 Dodge Charger Hemi, Revell 1/25
This is a review of the Revell 1967 Dodge Charger Hemi – kit #7669
This Charger kit is one of a group of Revell Mopar kits that are a must-have. The kit is well made, well accessorized, and decently decaled. The car’s 2-in-1 is about average, but the stock form is about as good as it gets.
The differences in the kits above are minimal. #1 is basically a dupe with slightly better decals. The FOOSE model has most of the stock parts but includes a slew of fancy aftermarket pieces. It also includes a big FOOSE decal sheet with a few of the stock emblems/decals.
The above 3 kits are from MPC (AMT), and I have never purchased any of them. Revell kits are usually the gold standard, so I never thought to try these. What is certain: MPC kits have fewer chrome pieces, poorer fit and finish, and less overall substance. Buyer beware.
CAR BACKGROUND :: The Charger first arrived in 1966 and sold really well. The sleek fastback and wide range of engines made this a great option vs. Chevy and Ford. Engines ranged from a lowly 318 all the way up to the behemoth 426 Hemi – though only a VERY few 67s wore the Hemi badge. The 425hp would scoot this rather large muscle car through the ¼mile in under 14 seconds at over 102mph. I really like the full-width front and rear valances and, in fact, this could be my favorite Charger of the namesake – even more than the Bullitt and the General.
BUILD NOTES : Like I said earlier, this Revell kit is fantastic. The rear light chrome piece should be scraped on the back side before fitting, as it will come loose over time. The grille+bumper piece can be difficult to fit as it is hefty, but it always looks good. The interior is one of the better you’ll find by any manufacturer and is one of the better detailed you’ll find.
First – under the hood. The 426 hemi is secured in a very detailed engine bay. The big V8 sits nicely around a detailed radiator, firewall, battery, and has a nice master cylinder. This hemi is black wired – through the valve covers – and includes a ignition coil. Add a open air cleaner and the car is ready to rock!
The first time I made this Charger, I designed it after one my brother’s friend used to own. It was bright yellow with a red velour interior. Completely unoriginal, the car was absolutely beautiful and sounded crazy good. It was powered by a custom, $10k 440 with all the aftermarket trimmings. For this redo, I decided to do something very different. I was going for medium copper, and Testors Gloss Copper seemed to work like a charm. I decided not to use the stock Magnum wheels and instead used some Dodge rims from another kit. It also sports slicks in the back vs. the standard ones, but they are removable for standard tires if I want to switch. The toughest part of this model is the long trim along the side of the car – it is thin and a focal point
As I said earlier, the interior of this model is HIGHLY detailed. I love working with this one and would die to own a real one. It is a low-gloss red with tons of aluminum trim. The glass is a bit tricky with the side vents, as gluing them can lead to a mess if you’re not careful. I usually use a really small piece of Scotch tape to hold them while gluing.
The bottom of this wonderful kit is also very nice. It has a really sweet exhaust with one of the best sets of tips you’ll find. They are hollow and turned down as the stock car would have. I painted the shocks a blue/silver combo.
I really liked the detail in the body of the car as well. There are 426 Hemi emblems, but there are also chrome door handles, taillight lettering to paint, a chrome gas cap insert, chrome wipers, and chrome strips along the wheelbase. It’s a bit of work to do stock, but it is worth it in the end.
This IS a must-have kit. Even if you are not a fan of this Charger, the kit is superb, and the car looks sensational when you’re done. I cannot vouch for the MPC kits, but this one is perfect every time! I would say that this one is also becoming a decent collectible, as there hasn’t been a reissue for years. It is STILL too nice of a kit to shelve.
9.5 – Excellent
Review : 1974 Dodge Charger, MPC 1/25
This is a review of the MPC 1974 Dodge Charger “Super Charger” kit.
For the record, this is an AWFUL kit in almost every way. I will go into the various terrible ways this car will frustrate, annoy, and make you sick. That said, there are very few models to choose from, and none of them really fix all that is wrong with this pig (more in a minute). Why then did I decide to make this POS?
As I was saying, there ain’t much choice when it comes to this year/model of Charger. The Palmer model at the end is terrible (as they are), and the other 2 are easily in the $3-400 range. The good news is that these 2 kits are much better equipped and even include a car body that doesn’t have a gas cap that shouldn’t be on the car. I can say that the chrome is still suspect, the glass can be tire-marked, and the flash, somewhat substantial.
CAR BACKGROUND :: 1974 was the swan song for the Charger’s muscle car status. 1975 made the Charger wear long flannel in a horribly unsporty-designed hunk of a vehicle. Sure the ’75 was comfy, but there wasn’t a sub-7 second 0 to 60 Charger until the GLHS on the mid-80s. The ’74, however, wears the 245hp, 440 4-barrel. It was good enough for low-to-mid 15s in the ¼mile but nothing compared to its earlier brethren. It is, perhaps, one of the most underrated Chargers of the era because of the engine, but the look is fantastic from every angle as far as I am concerned.
The engine bay is absolutely atrocious. With a little self-fixing, it came out respectable, but on its own… it is just bad. I used a wiper motor off of another kit for some extra detail on a firewall that is one of the worst fitting in the model kingdom. This kit, the MPC/AMT ’69 Charger (Dukes of Hazzard included), the ’74 GTX/Roadrunner, and some other Mopar kits ALL have the same exact garbage firewall. I also deleted a water reservoir, as there isn’t one like it in the real thing. The engine is grey-wired, and the 440 decal was homemade. The air cleaner is from another Mopar kit, and the “caution fan” is too (anything to make the build less bland).
The “street” setup is prominent since this is really a “street machine” kit. It comes with a giant hood scoop, a dual-carb cross-ram intake manifold, beefy exhaust headers, and a tach. It also includes a wide set of tires that you’d see in an ’80s Camaro kit… thick and almost truck-like. Also, *** of note *** – The windshield in this kit can be EITHER normal, as in my build, OR badly tinted. The tinted version looks terrible and looks akin to the cheap “dollar” plastic toys your Mom might buy you from KayBee.
When I was a young boy, my family took a trip to Virginia Beach and for the couple days we were there, there was a ’73-74 Dodge Charger SE. Like the above car, it was red. I fell in love and cared about nothing else on the trip. I painted mine Tamiya Italian Red, and the shine is splendid. I cannot emphasize how horrible the finish on this model car is, but I think I got it about right. The hood stripe is from a ’74 GTX, but fits rather nicely. Since I didn’t want to use a wing (which doesn’t come with this kit) or a hood scoop (which this one has – but in too large a size for stock purposes), I decided a hood stripe was a good add-on. I also have to note that this model uses side mirrors that are used in a half-dozen other kits.. AND they do NOT look right for this car. I used a ’70 Roadrunner side mirror, and it looks pretty tight.
The interior is black and fully detailed with wood grain and a wooden steering wheel. The interior design is better than the rest of the car, but still “cheap” looking. I used a steering wheel off another Mopar, as the one that came with the car was ugly. I added a directional stalk too, as it didn’t come with one.
The underside is lousy as well. No extra detail at all (shocks, springs, sway bars, etc.), and the exhaust setup is bland. I fashioned 2 exhaust tips as the standard “ends” are really awful. I also borrowed the wheels and tires from another kit altogether. I used Goodyear GTs from a Revell Hemi Cuda and the Magnum rims to go along with them. I also could have used ones from a ’71 Duster or the like, but I thought the fancier mags would help this poor kit. The rims that come with the kit are the standard “street racer” type (see pic) that came with a great many kits. That – mated with the fat, truck tires – would have been vomitous. I also printed the license plate, since this car doesn’t come with one.
The decals are garbage too. A salmon-maroon-black stripe doesn’t work with many car colors and is not a stock stripe kit. I’ve seen a couple available online, but they typically don’t place correctly and include a second Charger emblem (poor design).
I can say without hesitation that you should avoid this kit like the plague unless you need it, as I did. It really – even at its best – still exudes cheap, inauthentic crap (even the side gas cap – which I left body-color – is something from NASCAR and was never on the side of a ’74 Charger). Add a price tag in the $60 range, and this kit is an easy pass. Should be a tremendous investment, as it hasn’t been reissued and is getting rarer by the day.
5.5 – Poor
Review : 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A, Revell 1/24
This is a review of Revell’s 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A. Kit #2596.
This is a pretty slick Revell kit. There usually is flash on the wheel wells and bottom, but not enough to gripe over. I really like the fiberglass hood that comes with it. Be careful when attaching the front piece to the body, as the sides that match the front fenders sometimes need bending to sit flush. This kit is a 2-in-1 as well, but doesn’t include a whole lot of “street” goodies. It has a blower, but I cannot say there is enough to go with it.
Most of these will give you the same results, except for #1. The “metal glow” kit has the T/A molded in a horrifying maroon that is as close to an original color as plaid. Worse, the entire kit is maroon throw-up. #3 is also molded in red, though not “sparkly”. #2 is almost identical, save for the decals, and instructions may be a bit different. #4 is a rarity and an expensive buy, but it has a coveted feature. This 2-in-1 allows you to build a Challenger R/T with the standard hood. It is the only Revell kit that lets you build this Challenger that way. You can buy a resin hood on top of the other kits, but I’ve found resin often mediocre and a lot of work to get right.
AMT makes a few different kits for the Challenger, however, the Revell kits are a better build. The pieces fit better, the flash is less, and the “finish” is better. These kits ARE very buildable, but I avoid AMT’s when I can.
CAR BACKGROUND :: The 1970 Challenger was Dodge’s answer to the Chevelle and Torino. The car did so in many iterations, too. Hemi, 440, and T/A versions were as hot as any muscle car of the time period. Challenger 426s would easily run high 13s in the ¼mile and 440s were right behind by a whisper. This T/A was pretty lively for a small block as well. With 290 underrated horsepower, it would trip the lights at over 95mph in roughly 14.5 seconds. The car was sleek and stylish too, with a huge set of taillights on the rear panel and a blackened front valance that looked like it meant business. It also came in a plethora of tasty colors that sounded like something out of a cartoon: Go Mango, Plum Crazy, and Banana.
Fiberglass hood, side exhaust, fat tires, and burnouts a-plenty… T/A was.
BUILD NOTES : As I mentioned earlier, you have to be careful when putting the front clip on to the car so the fenders match up (see pic). Leave the rear “wing” off for painting and attach it afterward, since it will be a different color than the body. The hood should be more of a semi-gloss black, but I like the flat black better. The “street” setup is lacking with this kit. The extra hood allows for a massive high-rise intake or a blower. There is nothing else (not even headers) to make this a street rod besides what you add from other kits. There are custom rims, but no slicks. As a 2-in-1, this one is lame.
The engine bay is really good with an ounce of yuck. The 340 six-pack is one of the coolest model car engines you’ll find, but it is surrounded by mediocrity. The battery is molded into the fender and has low detail. The firewall is BLANK. I added a wiper motor from another kit to help, but it is completely devoid of detail. I know pristine Mopar muscle usually has a color-coded, clean look, but this is a bit much.
This T/A was painted Testors Bug Yellow – a very bright yellow that looks a lot like the Banana of that year. The hood is flat black and so is the rear wing. I don’t usually paint the white letters on the tires, but I took the extra time to do these. The stripes are great, but care needs to be taken as there is a small bit that goes under the side mirror. The other decals are amongst the best in model-dom, and there is a lot to place. One gaffe worth noting is the rear taillight piece. The clear piece is often not the right size for the chrome insert and needs a bit of trimming. Make sure it fits before using glue, or you may have a mess.
The interior is black and fully detailed with wood grain and a wood steering wheel. It comes with a pistol-grip 4-speed and has reasonable detail on the doors. It also comes with a rear-view mirror.
I have to say, I love the side exhaust on the T/As. They look nasty and are well detailed. It also helps not having to mess with the axle, as with a full exhaust. Never had an issue with this one matching the engine as well. The other details are a bit lacking, as there are no springs, shocks or extras of any kind. One final drawback with this underside is that you cannot opt for a standard dual exhaust. The Challenger R/T had cool exhaust tips, and they would look great on this kit. Using them from another kit would work, but it would cost extra.
Aside from the engine bay being a bit barren and there being almost nothing 2-in-1 about this kit, it is otherwise great. The parts fit well, the glass is easy and manageable, and the decals are fantastic. The T/A kits are still fairly obtainable, and the price hasn’t skyrocketed yet. The rare R/T Streetburner kit is starting to climb into the $50 range, but the others are still reasonably priced (this one was $22.50). This kit is an easy “thumbs up” but not for the serious gearhead. As stock Challengers go, however, this is a beaut!
8.75 – Very Good
’64 Pontiac GTO
This is a review of Revell’s 1964 Pontiac GTO 2-in-1. This is kit #2164.
The body of the car is fantastic. There is little flash and pieces fit very easily. It comes with stock and street pieces, though the street setup is mild (no slicks, wheelie bars etc.). The glass is easy to work with and the rear side glass is optional. There are many versions of this kit and there are some differences.
#1 is basically the same as the above. #2 is molded in red – and that means ALL of the pieces save the chrome… and even they are red under the silver – which makes trimming more tedious. #3 is not only not “special” but is the same as #2. #4 looks like 2 & 3 but is actually molded in white like #1.
These 2 kits are probably amongst the better snap-fit cars you can buy. They are complete with engines and lots of detail, just are a bit easier than the above. They don’t have the panache of the regular kits and include things I’m not crazy about – like a radio antenna w/hole. If you don’t use antennas (which I don’t) then you either have to patch the hole, or have one car with an antenna. The J.L. is a good collector item and comes with a 1/64th version.
CAR BACKGROUND :: The 64 GTO is considered to be the first of the true muscle cars and is one of the more handsome IMO. I think Revell did a great job with this kit in capturing all of the curves/lines of the original. The car’s 348hp, 389ci V8 was a honey of an engine – though lesser versions of the 389 were stout enough for anyone. The car wasn’t a pretender either. With the 4-speed tranny, the car could easily pull mid-14s in the ¼mile at near 100mph. Many purists took slight at Pontiac’s use of the GTO (Gran Turismo Omologato) name that was originally coined by Ferrari. In all fairness, it is hard to compare the Ferrari’s $20,000 racer to the $3k, 6-passenger cruiser. And… even though the “tiger” would outrun the prancing horse through the quarter mile, the cat would be skinned on ANY track and would lose the top speed battle by a good 50mph.
BUILD NOTES :: When going to paint the car, remember to paint the firewall (if you want it same as the car) and the nose insert between the grilles. The underside is very detailed and has a nice exhaust setup. It also has shocks and springs. The GTO comes with stock rims or custom ones. The custom rims are actually among the better looking in the model world and worth keeping/selling. Interior is also nicely detailed with a lot of door/dash items to paint if you wish.
The front grille/bumper setup fits very well and I’ve never had a problem with it. The rear one is a bit trickier, but still matches up well. Rear valance insert is nice and the center can be painted red or left chrome (the GTO came both ways). This model comes with rear view mirror, side mirror, radiator hose and has a master cylinder.
Under the hood is really nice on this car. Plenty of details adorn the fenders and firewall and the 389 tri-power is one of the nicest you’ll see. The model has a nice radiator setup, an attached battery, and a molded brake boost. I’m not crazy about the ones molded to the firewall, but at least this one is bigger and more detailed than most.
The “street” setup, like I said earlier, is mild. There are a few subtle upgrades – dual intake, sport rims, and a second hood with hole for the high-rise intake. The decals are kind of garbage. The stripes are ugly as heck and completely aftermarket. There is NOTHING GTO related. No engine decals, no GTO badges, nothing. Disappointing. License plates are standard too – nothing fun. I made one for mine.
I chose Tamiya Red Metallic spray for this GOAT. It looks pretty similar to the Grenadier Red of 1964 and the metallic isn’t too stunning (not like a bass boat, more of a light dusting). The paint came out just gorgeous and is easily one of my best to date.
This car can be a non-pillar car with just a slight bit of trimming. You have to take out the double bar and then shave the extra chrome trim around the roof (see pic). I kept mine as is as I think the extra chrome looks sharp.
Interior is black and fully detailed. Was debating in a multi-color interior, but decided the black with red was bold enough. Forgot to do a wood steering wheel, but the black still works.
Engine is the typical Pontiac silver-blue and has black wires. I didn’t, however, like the side mirror (one of the only negatives I can give this Revell) so I used an extra GM mirror I had.
Underside is easy to work with as the exhaust matches up with the engine every time. The shocks I painted blue and I left the mufflers flat black for a turbo-muffler look. I kept the standard quad-tips as they look pretty good from the sides.
Honestly, the grievances for this car are small. The parts all fit well. The front grill typically needs trimmed before placement (check before gluing). The rear bumper could better fit against the rear panel – doesn’t fit completely flush against on the top, but it doesn’t ruin the look either. I’ve also had a kit where the chrome is BAD. Not that other kits don’t have the issue, but this one was unusable.
As of 6/2019, these kits are prevalent and not horribly expensive (bought this one for $18). They are a decent investment since out of print, but are more importantly a fantastic build. I recommend the “white” versions so you can paint the pieces easier and not have to worry about the chrome ones, but the “red” kits still work.
9.25 – Excellent